Bums, Boats and Camper Vans

Sunday, June 15, 2008
Snork Maiden
Minimes, La Rochelle



There is something different about the homeless in La Rochelle. They are much less meek than the British sort and never advise you to ‘Gob less’ or say anything at all, actually. They are older and remind me more of the Orwellian style of tramp. I saw a street scene a couple of days ago that would have made a great verite clip. A very well dressed woman, stout, middle-aged, smart in a cream suit with an asymmetrically cut jacket and gold jewellery was face to face in profile with one of the bums, both slightly leaning into frame. I had them in profile, too far away to hear. The man, in his 60s maybe, was also stout, seated wearing a baseball cap and with a small box or bowl on the pavement in front of him (I have never seen any explanatory signs). The woman was clearly engaging him in discussion, but not, apparently, abusing him – it looked more like a debate in which they were both engaged and interested. She repeatedly pointed to the pavement in front of him – he made wide gestures with both hands as though he might be describing problems that are all-enveloping. You can write your own scripts. I walked on, then walked back to check it out again but she’d gone.

We lost our camera on the last trip to Thouars / Rigny in pursuit of property. I bought another one but also had to go to the police station to make a deposition about the loss, for insurance. I was handed over to the Capitaine, who was in his 40’s and had a nice bum I noticed, as I followed him along the corridor. He was pleasant, polite, helpful and spoke to me in French for the whole time.

The showers at the La R capitanerie are pretty good but expensive at 2€ for 10 minutes. Couples often shower together – presumably out of French frugality and lack of shame over bathroom matters. In fact the shower room doors are always left open in spite of the fact that they open practically on to the reception area. I saw the rear view of a naked man feeding the shower machine yesterday. (Fortunetely passable in the backside region.) In Marans (winter place for boat) the showers / toilets / wash-up room is completely non-sexed and no-one seems to have the slightest sense of embarrassment or self-consciousness about this arrangement. Showers and loos have doors, of course. And there is a semi-shielded urinoir – also very French.

Actually I have nothing to say about boats today (except, Snork Maiden, I love you!). Camper vans are very popular in France with a huge variety of makes available. They seem to be getting larger, though. They camp out at marinas apparently for free, there are about 10-20 here on any day. Most places in France seems to have facilities for them and it’s clear that they are a pretty convenient way to travel – apart from the price of diesel, which has climbed radically – hence the demos.

Moving around to the Vieux Port shortly, so more about the city soon.

Comments

  1. Oh yes - for those who are interested, we have signed a 'compromis de vente' on the barn/cowshed complex. This is the last day we can 'cool off' and withdraw. I think we are going to stay with it!

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